perhaps the most famous tango of all - la cumparsita - performed by anibal arias
to the barbican last night to see what’s left of the bandoneonistas and other musicians of buenos aires and the rio del plata’s golden age of tango, known collectively as cafe de los maestros. the combined age of this gradually dwindling group would take them back to the middle ages.
i was particularly struck by the plaintive and still powerful singing of juan carlos gardoy - now a very frail old man whose movements onto the stage were painfully slow and mechanical. yet he sings with such intense conviction that he held the full house of the barbican in his hand.
there was also the playing of anibal arias - a virtuoso of tango guitar.
Argentina and Uruguay’s tango row

carlos gardel, one of the great figures of argentinian tango, is the source of a serious row between the home of the tango and its neighbouring country, uruguay. the escapades of gardel’s father certainly give lie to the idea that any might have that uruguay might be some kind of staid and sleepy backwater.
i also sat at the table where carlos gardel is reputed to have sat. it didn’t inspire me to sing, but perhaps i will return someday
this is the cafĂ© tortoni in buenos aires. i sat here at the table where jorge luis borges sat. (yes. like he always sat at the same table. right.) i tried to think erudite and mysterious labyrinthine thoughts. i ate a delicious cheese and ham omelette. i waited for inspiration… and i waited … and i waited … and decided to take tango lessons on my return to london. so far neither the tango lessons, nor the inspiration has materialised.
perhaps it’s too late for either.